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Why We Sell Plants by Plant Width

We are a nursery that grows only rhododendrons.  We are different than your retail nursery down the street or the big box store in that we grow the product that we sell.  When you go to a retail nursery, all the plants on display were grown for that season only.  Our plants are grown and for sale from the second year onto almost fully grown plants.  Because we take care of this plant over what could be ten years or more, we have to transplant them into larger pots as they grow.  Rhododendrons tend to get a container shift from us about once every three years.  So at any given time, about 1/3 of our plants look like the plants you would see at a retail nursery where the top of the plant matches the container they are planted in.  Because we do not progressively move our pot size up every year, we sell our plants by width of the foliage and then give you the typical container size that you would find at a retail nursery of that size.  For example, a plant that we sell as an 8” to 12” plant would typically be sold at a retail nursery in a two-gallon container.  Our 8” to 12” wide plant could be in either a one, two or three-gallon size nursery container at our nursery. 

Please send us a message if you have any questions about sizing.  You may also what to look at understanding nursery container sizes.  A one-gallon nursery container does not even come close to holding one fluid gallon.  Learn More Here.

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Container Size

Container sizes for nursery plants is simply confusing. There is a government agency(ANSI) that worked with the American Nursery and Landscape Association to publish a 129-page guide on containers sizes for nursery plants. In the smaller size containers #1-10, the allowable sizes of these containers can vary up to 50%. When we also call a #1 container a one-gallon container and it would by no means hold a gallon of milk, we continue the confusion.
When this confusion results in the buyer being disappointed with the plant size they expected to receive, this becomes a real problem for customers who are buying their plants online. I have added some pictures below to give a general idea about the size of nursery containers based on common house hold items that we gauge with volume.
At rhododendrons direct, we are a little different in that we sell our plants by the foliage top, rather than the container size, but we do like to reference the typical size container the foliage spread in which it would be found. For more information on foliage spread, click here.

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The Most Common Problems for Ailing Rhododendrons

It is a privilege to be able to work with so many of my customers when they are having issues with their rhododendrons.  I wish I could just stop by your yard and have a conversation, but for most of the time we are limited to emails when there are sometimes hours or days that go by between the time we get to converse.  I wanted to share with you an article that was published by the American Rhododendron Society in 1994 by Jan D. Kelley.  I have shared this with many customers already and I hope that this article can help in two different ways.

This article my help preventing some of the issues that can occur later.  I enclose planting instructions with every plant we sell, but it does not cover the care of the plant.  Here are some Very, Very basic steps as to what to avoid. 

If your plant is struggling, you might find something in this article that may aid you in changing the environment for your plant.  I agree with the author that the great majority of rhododendrons that I see struggle have been planted in an environment that does not allow the soil to drain away excess water.  I hope that article may help in a few questions you may have.  I am always available via email for all questions!  Jim

https://www.rhododendron.org/v48n2p85.htm

 Top Causes of Death in Rhododendrons

Jan D. Kelley
Drain, Oregon

Our hopes soar with the coming of spring as we anticipate another excellent growing season for our rhododendrons with their exquisite flowers.  As we ponder the fantastic new hybrids in the pages of the several catalogs that we receive our vision of being successful gardeners bursts forth.  However, as you reflect upon last year’s plant losses a ray of doubt creeps into your consciousness, and the nagging question emerges: “Why did that plant die?”

For the past 15 years I have enjoyed raising rhododendrons.  During that period of time I believe that I have killed rhododendrons in every conceivable way.  In the remainder of this brief article I would like to identify some of the various ways that rhododendrons succumb in our yards and gardens.  My experience indicates that most rhododendrons die from about seven causes.

To begin with, excessive water kills about 75 percent of all rhododendrons purchased.  Rhododendrons are fibrous, shallow rooted plants that need good drainage to perform well.  Historically, gardeners have been told to dig a hole twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball.  After the hole is completed put the plant in the hole and back-fill it with a mixture of peat, soil and other amendments. Many rhododendrons die from this guidance.  The result of digging the hole and planting the rhododendron in it is nothing more than putting the plant in a bathtub that holds excessive water.  The continual presence of water around the root ball prevents the roots from taking in vital oxygen as well as serving as an excellent incubation chamber for fungus diseases.  It seems that most of the native soils around the country have an excessive amount of clay in them.  The presence of clay in the soil prevents good drainage, which is vital to the growth of the rhododendrons. Anyone who has ever been to the several locations around the world where rhododendrons originate knows that rhododendrons grow in shallow beds of highly organic matter.  The drainage is typically excellent.

Another cause of rhododendron death is lack of water.  Rhododendrons do not have taproots like trees: their roots grow very near the surface.  Therefore, they need frequent watering.  The acquisition of new plants in the spring requires regular watering.  During the first couple of years watering the plants at least twice a week is a must.  As the time goes by and the plants increase in size and root development, watering less frequently works well.  After about five or six years it is possible to water weekly or even bi-weekly.  Frequently sunburned leaves are the result of the lack of water.  For many varieties that have burned in the sun in the past, the cause was lack of water not too much sun.  Burned tips on this year’s new growth is typically indicative of lack of water as the plant withdraws water from the tips of the new foliage first.

Another cause of rhododendron death is the excessive application of fertilizer.  This is particularly true of applying fertilizer directly at the base of the trunk of the plant.  A good rule of thumb is to fertilize more frequently with smaller amounts, rather than one large dose.  This is especially true for small plants or newly transplanted plants.

A fourth reason for rhododendron death is planting too deep.  As indicated earlier, rhododendrons are shallow rooted plants.  Their roots grow just below the soil line.  If they are placed too deep in the ground, the soil that covers the roots serves to smother them.  I have found that planting too deep will basically stop the plant from growing.  Eventually this leads to the death of the plant.

Another reason that rhododendrons die is from cold winter temperatures.  Most rhododendron sources indicate the lowest temperature range in which rhododendrons can be successfully grown.  This hardiness rating is a guide not an absolute!  In general, the lowest temperature during the past five years is a good guide for making selections based on hardiness.  Years ago there were very few plants that were hardy in -25°F for the extreme climates.  Now we have over 100 varieties that will survive those winter temperatures.  Gardeners in the East should select hardy varieties in the beginning.  With time and experience less hardy varieties can be successfully tried.  A rhododendron rated hardy to 5°F, no matter how beautiful it is, planted in Green Bay, Wisconsin, will not survive.

As more and more home gardeners in the Southern and Midwestern states begin to grow rhododendrons, increased attention must be paid to the hot summer sun.  Most varieties exposed to unprotected all-day sun are doomed.  However, there are available rhododendron varieties that can stand direct sun.  In general rhododendrons in extreme climates benefit from filtered light and partial shade.  Planting in a southern exposure without any protection from the sun nearly guarantees plant death.

Finally, if you create the right conditions most rhododendrons will be subject to fungus diseases.  Typically we combine several fungus diseases into a general category of “die-back.”  The results of the disease are seen during the late spring when the plant is just beginning to grow and all of a sudden it drops dead.  It is also seen during the summer when a branch turns brown and dies.  Frequently the ailing plant will be lost.  These phytophthora-type diseases are generally the result of conditions created by the gardener, as it is believed that the disease spores are present in the soil all over the country.  Some of the ways that we promote these organisms is by planting the rhododendron too deep, thus providing a water culture for the development of the disease organisms.  Puddles of water that remain more than an hour after watering also harbor disease.  Watering in the late afternoon or evening encourages disease development.  Finally, failure to use fungicides during the late spring and summer encourages the development of fungus.

In conclusion, you are not alone if you have lost plants to any of the above mentioned causes of rhododendron death.  Most of the causes can be overcome with the intelligent selection of plants that are suited to your geographical area.  Finally, think about where and how you planted your rhododendrons and what you did to promote their death.